Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Utica to Hudson, Ky. - July 31

This morning before leaving, we noticed that my back tire is quite worn, alarmingly so. It made it through a 70-mile day, but we decided to take a slight detour tomorrow to go to a bike shop in Elizabethtown, about 20 miles away up Route 62 so I can get a new one.

As it turns out, the detour will actually save us some miles and we'll return to the route at Bardstown.

The ride today got slightly hillier later on, and without any clouds, it started to get warm. We crossed into the Eastern time zone just before we arrived at the Double L Grocery store, where we understand bicyclists can camp. The owner isn't here just yet, so we've been sitting inside, watching Olympic water polo, rowing and beach volleyball.

Tomorrow, we may ride a bit beyond Bardstown, setting us up to get to Berea on Friday.

The infamous "Kentucky Dogs" have been a real disappointment so far: we didn't get chased at all, so no pics or videos of that.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Marion to Utica, Ky. - July 30

Today's ride of 71 miles was largely uneventful, taking us through some gently rolling hills as well as some downright flat areas in western Kentucky.

I was on the lookout for dogs, but only saw these two curious dogs at one convenience store stop. Dad was briefly chased by one, but it didn't make a real effort.

It was overcast for most of the day, which helped keep the temperature manageable.

We had 60 miles in by noon, finishing our day in Utica around 1 p.m. We're staying at the fire station here where the program is to just walk in the unlocked doors and make yourself at home.

I've been looking ahead more to how long it will take us to get to Yorktown, Va. It'll probably be about two weeks yet. Since that will get us back earlier than expected, I'm going to ride from there back up to Lancaster, going through D.C. and Baltimore on a route mapped out by Adventure Cycling, whose maps we have been following. Dad is just going to get a ride home from Yorktown.

Tomorrow we plan to ride to a grocery store near the town of Hudson where we hear it is possible to camp. There aren't many other options in the area.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Goreville, IL, to Marion, Ky. - July 29

It was overcast for most of the day, so it was cooler. The high temperature was just in the 90s, and it was comfortable.

We had to ride over a few hills, and some of them were steep, but they didn't make much of an impression on me. It seems like we'll have gently rolling hills until we get more into the Appalachians in a couple days.

We also crossed into Kentucky, our penultimate state. Although we go the long way through Kentucky and Virginia, it makes it seem like the trip is nearing the end.

To get to Kentucky, we crossed the Ohio River on a ferry boat.

We're staying inside at a church in Marion, set up in a room with six couches. We made pizza in the church's kitchen and I quizzed dad on whether he thinks he's eating enough. He probably isn't, even though his half of the pizza had 800 calories, which he followed with a big bowl of butter pecan ice cream.

We weren't chased by any dogs today, but probably will be soon. For cyclists, Kentucky is known as the place where dogs like to run after you. I'm hoping to get some action photos or videos of these events, so stay tuned.

Tomorrow we plan to ride to the little town of Utica where we hear cyclists can stay in a firehouse.

Also, that's a picture of my bike and loaded gear.

Ohio River ferry

Here are some old and new pictures of crossing over the Ohio River on a ferry into Kentucky.

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Chester to Goreville, IL - July 28

We started before sunrise today and enjoyed a cool ride along the Mississippi River, which included roads on top of the levee. It was very flat in that section and very few cars passed us. It was quite a scene with the morning fog and the river sometimes visible through the trees.

From the river, we rode east to Murphysboro and then skirted the bottom of Carbondale as we stayed on a lot of back roads. We were about to miss one of our turns because the road wasn't marked when two cyclists coming the other way warned us about, and we were fine.

We rode into Goreville at about 1:40 and had lunch at Delaney's, where they give cyclists free dessert. I had a huge chocolate milkshake and dad had apple pie with ice cream. From there it was a couple miles to Fern Clyff State Park, where we're staying. We made a a wrong turn getting to the camping area, so maybe now we're even.

The temperature was noticeably cooler today, with highs only in the lower 90s. And it is actually pleasant at the campsite, which is nicely shaded.

We rode 80 miles today. Tomorrow we'll probably cross the Ohio River into Kentucky.

Friday, July 27, 2012

Illinois!

Farmington to Chester, IL, July 27

We had a shorter day planned so we didn't leave right at the break of day like we have been doing. Plus we had a veritable luxury apartment at out disposal so we sat around a bit, drank coffee and watched the local news before leaving at 7 a.m.

The ride out of Farmington had some hills, but I've become so desensitized to them that it seemed like a pretty easy ride. I had to stand up and pedal a couple of times, but you can see the tops of these hills and you usually get a nice downhill ride.

We crossed the Mississippi River and then stopped in Chester where we're staying in a tiny bicyclist bunkhouse behind the Fraternal Order of Eagles. Its key feature is an air conditioner since although it is slightly cooler than it has been, that is highly relative: the afternoon temperatures are still in the upper 90s.

We plan to start early tomorrow and see how far we get. Maybe we'll make it to Eddyville, which is 90 miles away. The first 30 miles tomorrow will be along the river, which should be nice.

Mississippi River

Here's dad riding up to the Mississippi River in 1987 and 2012.

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Ellington to Farmington, MO - July 26

We had kind of a lousy night in the city park in Ellington. It was a long, hot afternoon and evening, not getting below 90 degrees until midnight or so.

I was sweating in my tent. Plus, the parking lot next to the pavilion we were at is apparently the local spot for youths to come in their pickup trucks to talk and carry on. When it gets too dark, the lights from the tennis courts help them to see.

I was glad when morning came and we could get back to biking. We had our packs on for the first time in a couple days, so the bike was just more sluggish. Fortunately, the hills weren't as steep and we actually had some cloud cover for the first time in what seems like a month.

We made it to Farmington after 64 miles and are staying at a bicycle hostel we've been hearing about from other cyclists since almost the beginning of our trip. It is a former jail that they remade into a hostel. Really, It is more like a large apartment with three rooms filled with bunks. It has tv, wifi, a laundry and nice leather couches. They suggest a $20 donation.

We are the only ones here and we've really been enjoying just lounging around.

Tomorrow, we plan to have another fairly short day to Chester, Ill., which is just across the Mississippi River.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Houston to Ellington, MO - July 24

I had been looking forward to this day for a while since it includes the stretch that, 25 years ago, proved to be just about the toughest of the trip.

Today we went through the main mountains of the Ozarks, which feature tremendously steep hills in quick succession. And, like last time, the heat has been just about unbearable with highs consistently around 100 degrees, and reaching that mark by about noon. However, instead of stopping to get breakfast and riding the hardest hills during the hottest part of the day, we got started as soon as possible and kept going until it was all said and done.

We still wound up going over the high hills when it was close to 100 degrees, but we didn't have to suffer through for too long. Also, the Ozarks loomed so large in my mind that I knew it would be impossible for them to be as bad as I remember: and they weren't.

We were once again aided by mom's sag wagon stops with the van during which we could sit in chairs and have delicious food and cold drinks. She was also carrying our packs again, which lightened our load up the hills.

We made it to Ellington after riding 70 miles. We're staying in a city park at the edge of town. Mom has now left to drive back to Mountain View, Ark. It sure was nice having her around for a few days.

Tomorrow, we plan to ride to Farmington, which will be our last overnight stop on Missouri.

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Marshfield to Houston, MO - July 24

We did all of our riding before noon, getting into Houston with 64 miles. When we arrived, mom was already in a hotel room that she had picked out, so we've been lounging in the air-conditioned room all afternoon.

We ate pizza at 10:30 in a small convenience store along the way where the clerk recounted all the other cyclists he has seen this summer, including some we've also seen, such as the two families riding six tandems.

Mom is going to be driving along with us tomorrow, but then will be driving back to Mountain View, Ark., in the evening. That means that we won't have a veritable restaurant van following us and will also go back to carrying our own packs.

Tonight, I went through all the things I'll be sending back with mom, including my warm clothes and the camp stove. It's been so hot that we haven't felt like cooking and it is just more convenient -- and not that much more expensive-- to just buy food along the way.

Tomorrow we'll be going through the most memorable hills of the Ozarks, with the goal of making it to Ellington. In 1987, this was the stretch where mom almost gave out and I waited along the side of the road for what could have been two hours until she and dad caught up.

Monday, July 23, 2012

Golden City to Marshfield, MO - July 23

Following a cool night's sleep on the couch in the youth room and a breakfast of cereal and granola in the church kitchen, we started riding at first light. It was flat at first, but we soon got into some roller-coaster hills.

Sometimes we had to do a lot of quick gear shifting to transition from an intense downhill to a serious uphill. It wasn't so bad, and I found myself being thankful for the downhill coasts, since it has been a while since we were actually able to coast.

With mom following along in a van filled with drinks and snacks, we didn't have to worry about finding stores to stop at. One time we sat in the air-conditioning for a while, across from a bank where it alternately said the temperature was 99 and 97 degrees.

Later in the day it certainly was hot. And even with our early start, we rode in some of the hottest parts of the day, especially since it was 84 miles to Marshfield, where we are staying in a nice city park.

Right now mom is making a supper of barbecue chicken, broccoli salad and beans while dad is marveling at how heavy all the stuff is that he is going to send back with mom.

Oh yeah. It was once again great to ride without packs. It feels like, with a little effort, you can just float along.

Tomorrow we plan to ride just over 60 miles to Houston, where we plan to get a hotel room. Mom wanted to stay in a hotel once during her visit and tomorrow night will be her last night with us.

Also, as we travelled just north of Springfield, I saw a sign that was coincidentally naming the band that was a springboard for Neil Young's career, so I took a photo.